Despicable Me Minion Crochet Doll

Despicable Me Minion Crochet Doll Pattern
Pattern created by Emily Lucero Wood

Feel free to take over the world... when you have this little guy by your side!  He is an adorable sidekick who is such fun to cuddle with!  

If you would like to purchase a copy of this crochet pattern for $4, please email me at monamicreationz@yahoo.com.  Once I receive your email request, I will email an invoice for the pattern to you (please include an email address!).  Once the invoice has been paid, you will receive a PDF copy of the pattern!

This crochet pattern explains how to make the details pictured, including his big goggle.  He measures between 5-6 inches tall, which makes him the perfect size to carry around, display, or wrap as a gift!  Your Despicable Me Minion fan will LOVE this one!!

I LOVE Minions!!  I have other Minion products available in my Etsy shop!  Please stop by to check out my other Minion patterns! 

crochet-pattern-despicable-me-minion

All-Wrapped-Up Free Crochet Baby Cocoon Pattern

All-Wrapped-Up Free Crochet Baby Cocoon Pattern

Pattern created by Emily Wood

Abbreviation List- video tutorials can be found on YouTube

Rnd- round

mc- magic circle (or loop)

Hdc- half double crochet

sl st- slip stitch

st- stitch

inc- increase

Materials:

Hook- K

Yarn- 3 Skeins Bulky Yarn

2- 1 inch buttons

Instructions: This cocoon is made for a 20-inch-long baby.  The finished length from bottom to top of cocoon measures 16 inches, assuming that the baby will not be laying perfectly stretched out.  To increase the length, add more rounds between rounds 5-14.  Likewise, to decrease the length, leave out rounds between the same area.  Each round/row measures about (a ½ inch tall).  The cocoon is worked in rounds for the first half, so I advise using a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of each round.

Rnd 1: In magic circle, sc, hdc, 8 dc (10)

Rnd 2: Inc around (20)

Rnd 3: inc every other st (30)

Rnd 4: inc every 3^rd st (40)

Rnd 5: (sk 1 st, 2 dc in next st) around. 

Rnd 6-14: (2 dc in space between clusters of last round) around. 

From row 15 until the end, we will be working back and forth in ROWS

Row 15-22: ch 3 and turn, (2 dc in space between clusters of last round) until you reach the beginning of row (do not attach)

Row 23: ch 3 and turn, (2 hdc in space between clusters) 16 times, (2 sc in space between clusters) 3 times, (sc, sl st) in last space to finish

Finishing: With slit to the left, fold rows 15-23 down toward bottom of cocoon and sew into place.  Attach buttons to fold for looks.  Alternatively, you can attach buttons underneath the flap and squeeze them through the holes, securing the flap in place with the buttons.

African Flower Pillowcase Free Instructions and Layout

I have a recent obsession: African Flower Motifs!  I'm not a huge fan of granny squares (and especially not a particular fan of connecting them!), but when I first saw an African Flower Motif, I was caught!  It is such a beautiful design, and works with any color combos to form an exquisite garden!  I decided to give one a try and used the African Flower Motif found here and her instructions are so clear and wonderful!  On that blog, she posted a photo of a really neat pillowcase made from these flower motifs.  I decided that that was to be my next project!  I started making motifs and figured I better research how many hexagons I need and how to attach them.  And that was when I ran into the problem!  I could NOT find instructions on how to make a pillowcase!  With the help of my pretty darn cool husband, I cracked the code!  This blog post will provide instructions on how my snazzy African Flower Pillowcase came to be!

You will need yarn (duh!) and a 16x16 insert pillow (mine came from Hobby Lobby- using my 40% off coupon, of course!).

Crochet 32 African Flowers (I did 32 different combinations, each with the last round being white).
Lay them out in the following pattern: (4, 3, 4, 5, 4, 5, 4, 3)

Once I had all 32 of my flowers, I found that there were several combinations that were my favorites. I wanted to be sure that these flowers were front and center! Looking at the photo above, (from left to right) the 3 center flowers on the 4th row, the 4 flowers on the 5th row, and the 3 center flowers on the 6th row are the main ones, so make sure they are pretty!

Attach the motifs with a slip stitch in the back.  This will ensure a small seam that will be only visible from the back.

You can see from the photo above how the 'puzzle' works!  The flowers that are overhanging will fold over and make the edges.  Make sure not to attach the two farthest edges because that is where you will slip the insert pillow in and out!  You can attach buttons to help keep the hole closed.

If you need me, I'll be off making one of these for every room in my house!

ENJOY!

Basket Weave Ear Warmer Free Pattern!

Here I present one of my favorite stitches, the basket weave!! Weave your double crochet stitches together to make this Basket Weave Ear Warmer in any color that makes your heart happy!  I love the basket weave because it looks amazing and it also feels really nice.  I like to use one color for this piece (though you can use multiple if you choose), and one 1/2 inch or 1 inch button in the back.  Please feel free to ask questions or share any comments you may come across while making this!

Basket Weave Ear Warmer
Pattern created by Emily Lucero Wood

Abbreviation List- video tutorials can be found on YouTube
Hdc- half double crochet
dc- double crochet
fpdc- front post double crochet
bpdc- back post double crochet
sl st- slip stitch
ch- chain
st- stitch
inc- increase (this pattern consists of fpdc inc, bpdc inc, hdc inc)
dec- decrease
FO- finish off

Materials:
Hook- I hook
Yarn- Worsted Weight recommended

*At the end of each row, chain 2 and turn (I will omit this instruction at the end of each row with the assumption that you will do this each time).
*Basic understanding of the basketweave is helpful before attempting this pattern, though not necessary.  This particular basketweave contains 3 fpdc, 3 bpdc; and you will do three rows before switching to the opposite direction.
*During the increase and decrease rows, you will do one row of increases, then one row steady
*Three rows will work together to make each part of the weave.  The rows (Row 1:, etc) are either bolded or not to demonstrate which rows will be worked similarly

To begin: ch 10
Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across (8)
Row 2: fpdc in first 3 st, bpdc in 3 st, hdc in last st (7)
Row 3: fpdc inc (meaning put 2 fpdc st around first st), fpdc in next 2 st, bpds in next 3 st, hdc inc in last st (meaning put 2 hdc st in the last st) (9)
Row 4: fpdc, bpdc in next 3 st, fpdc in next 3 st, bpdc, hdc (9)
Row 5: fpdc inc, bpdc in next 3 st, fpdc in next 3 st, bpdc, hdc inc (11)
Row 6: fpdc in next 2 st, bpdc in next 3 st, fpdc in next 3 st, bpdc in next 2 st, hdc (11)
Row 7: bpdc inc, bpdc, fpdc in next 3 st, bpdc in next 3 st, fpdc in next 2 st, hdc inc (13)
Row 8: bpdc in next 3 st, fpdc in next 3 st, bpdc in next 3 st, fpdc in next 3 st, hdc (13) [At this point you have reached the full width and will simply continue repeating the pattern until you reach the length necessary]
Row 9: bpdc in next 3 st, fpdc in next 3 st, bpdc in next 3 st, fpdc in next 3 st, hdc
Row 10: fpdc in next 3 st, bpdc in next 3 st, fpdc in next 3 st, bpdc in next 3 st, hdc
Row 11 & 12: repeat row 10.
Row 13 & 14 repeat row 9.
You will want to end with a row 12 so that your basket weave comes out properly with the decreases.
Row 15: bpdc dec, bpdc, fpdc in next 3 st, bpdc in next 3 st, fpdc in next 2 st, fpdc/hdc dec (11)
Row 16: bpdc in next 2 st, fpdc in next 3 st, bpdc in next 3 st, fpdc in next 2 st, hdc (11)
Row 17: bpdc dec, fpdc in next 3 st, bpdc in next 3 st, fpdc, fpdc/hdc dec (9)
Row 18: fpdc, bpdc in next 3 st, fpdc in next 3 st, bpdc, hdc (9)
Row 19: fpdc/bpdc dec, bpdc in next 2 st, fpdc in next 3 st, bpdc/hdc dec (7)
Row 20: bpdc in next 3 st, fpdc in next 3 st, hdc.

Finishing: FO and weave in extra yarn.  Attach a ½-1 inch button centered over rows 18-20.  To wear, put on head, covering ears and shove the button through a hole in row 2 or 3 of the other end.

Ice Cream Banana Split Free Pattern!

I've worked in an Ice Creamery since I was 16.  Needless to say… ice cream is an important part of my life!  I've worked in this restaurant for 10 years now and one of the most frequently asked questions I receive is, 'Don't you ever get sick of ice cream?!'  And my honest answer?  NO!  Ice cream is so amazingly delicious and can be changed up in soooo many ways!  Choose a different flavor, add different syrups and candies… ooh, the possibilities!  I have a whole collection of mini crocheted ice cream sundaes, and I wanted to share one the most popular one today with you!  This is a traditional banana split!  Feel free to change the 'flavors' to get a banana split that is just for you!  I will also include photos of my other sundaes, which I am hoping to offer the patterns in my Etsy shop pretty soon!



Ice Cream Banana Split

Pattern created by Emily Lucero Wood

Materials:

G-hook

Yarn Colors (Red Heart Super Saver Yarn): tan, café brown, pink, red, bright yellow, pale yellow, white, cherry red

Fiberfill stuffing

Scoop (make 3- tan, pale yellow, and pink)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in mc (6)

Rnd 2: inc around (12)

Rnd 3: inc every other st (18)

Rnd 4: inc every 3^rd st (24)

Rnd 5-6: sc around (24)

Rnd 7: dec every 3^rd st (18)

Rnd 8: dec every other st (12), begin stuffing

Rnd 9: dec around (6)

Finishing:  Stuff firmly.  Weave yarn through each stitch of round 9 and pull tight to close.  Leave extra yarn for sewing pieces together.  The three scoops will be attached together using the extra yarn, with the pale yellow and pink sitting side by side and the tan scoop sitting above and between the others.

Banana (make 2)- pale yellow

Rnd 1: 4 sc in mc (4)

Rnd 2: inc every other st (6)

Rnd 3: inc every other st (9)

Rnd 4: inc every other st, sc in last st (13)

Rnd 5-6: sc around

Finishing:  Slip stitch to finish.  These pieces will not be stuffed.  Attach one piece to each side of the ice cream scoops (one attached to pink and the other banana attached to the pale yellow scoop). 

Topping (make 7- 2 red, 2 bright yellow, 3 café brown)

Ch 7, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook and next 4, ch 2

Finishing:  each piece looks like a forked snake tongue.  Attach them to the corresponding ice cream scoop (red to the pink scoop, bright yellow to the pale yellow scoop and café brown to the tan scoop).

Whip- white

Ch 6, sc in 2^nd ch from hook and next 3, inc in last st, sc 3 down opposite side of foundation ch.  Slip stitch to finish.

Cherry- red

Rnd 1: 5 sc in mc (5)

Rnd 2: inc around (10)

Rnd 3: dec around (5)

Finishing: slip stitch to finish.  Do not stuff.  Sew cherry to whipped cream.  With a stray piece of red yarn, come up through the top of the cherry.  Tie a knot and cut yarn right next to knot.  This will make the stem stiff.  Attach whip cream to top of scoop.

Banana Boat white

Rnd 1: ch 19, sc in 2^nd ch from hook and in next 16 st, 3 sc in last ch, sc 16 down opposite side of chain

Rnd 2: inc, sc, inc, sc in next 15 st, inc, sc, inc, sc in last 15 st

Rnd 3: sc around in blo (back loop only)

Rnd 4: sc around

Finishing: slip stitch to finish.  Fit ice cream scoops into banana boat and sew into place using white yarn.

Enjoy!

The other delicious sundaes in my crochet collection!  Look for the patterns in my Etsy shop (monamicreationz.etsy.com)